By ELLEN ENDO
RAFU SHIMPO
Ramen, the noodle dish with dozens if not hundreds of variations, owes its local popularity to Kouraku, a Little Tokyo-based restaurant that opened in 1976.
On Jan. 30, the City of Los Angeles recognized the eatery as the oldest continually operating ramen restaurant in the U.S.
City Councilmember Ysabel Jurado presided over the unveiling of a marker designating Kouraku’s historical significance. It was her first monument dedication since taking office in mid-December.
Referencing her background focusing on preventing the displacement of API renters and small businesses, Jurado stated, “Honoring Kouraku is one of the best things I could be doing.”
“Fifty years is a long time for a small business and a restaurant to survive,” stated Bill Watanabe of the Little Tokyo Historical Society, adding that the first ramen shop in Little Tokyo was Sapporo Ramen, which was located on First Street and is no longer in existence. “(Sapporo) opened up around 1962, but in terms of a continuously operating business, that (distinction) belongs to Kouraku.”
Consul General of Japan Kenko Sone asked those present to consider the challenges that Japanese restaurant owners must have faced in the 1960s, when Japanese food was not as popular in America as it is today.
Sone commended current owner Mamoru Tokuda for continuing the business, upholding the traditions while also bringing something new.
Hiroshi Yamauchi assumed ownership of Kouraku in 1986. His mission: Introduce Americans to the style of home cooking he learned growing up in Tokyo.
He lived out his dream for the next 34 years until his passing in 2020. Today, Tokuda is honoring Yamauchi’s memory by continuing the culinary tradition begun by his predecessor while also adding contemporary features such as a robotic server.
“The identity of this restaurant is very strong, and it will be a great boost for our business in the future,” said Tokuda, who then introduced four Latino members of the restaurant staff who each have worked there for 20 to 30 years.
He expressed appreciation to Yamauchi’s widow Mihoko and daughter Haruka, saying, “Thank you for trusting us to take over the business for the future. I am happy but at the same time I feel a strong (sense of) responsibility.”
Little Tokyo Business Association Senior Vice President Glenn Osaki remarked that Yamauchi was an active member of LTBA and a vocal advocate for his fellow restaurant owners.
Kouraku’s extended hours — open until midnight except Friday and Saturday night, when it’s open until 2 a.m. — coupled with its menu of homestyle meals continue to attract a diverse range of customers from office workers to police officers to celebrities and an occasional athlete. Sone pointed out that visiting Japanese politicians find the hours convenient for late-night snacking and sake.
Despite stiff competition from the nearly 100 food and beverage establishments in Little Tokyo, ranging from boba shops to fine dining, Kouraku is poised to stay open for another 50 years.
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